Posted: Wed Jan 28, 2009 11:21 am Post subject: Under the deck baitpump install x-13
Installed my bait pump so I thought I'd share:
First the constraints. I wanted a pump that creates little drag, is self priming, that I can adjust the flow on, that has an accessible screen that I can clean while on the water, and that I can easily remove to troubleshoot and remove to soak in freshwater after the trips.
Here's the basic components.
That's a 2" inch rubber pipe cap from Home depot. A Rule 360 bilge pump, and a modified Marelon 3/4 thru-hull fitting.
I modify all three. First I drill a 3/4 inche hole in the center of the cap and sand the end smooth on a belt sander.
I then take the Marelon (glass fibered nylon) through hull...
chuck it in my lathe reduce the height of the exterior flange end sharpen its edge and then cut in an inset for the perforated aluminum screen. I then take it out of the lathe and tighten the nut down to the flange on top of a 1/4 inch spacer, I then cut the nut and shaft off with a bandsaw leaving only the 3/8 threaded washer end.
What your seeing in the pic is the flange with 5/8 of it's shaft and threads underneath it with the screen in place and the threaded washer next to it.
I use Marlon because it's strong, I would not try this with plastic versions or straight nylon. because they can break if you make them too thin.
I go with rule pumps because the are the size I need and the 360 bilge is relatively cheap. About 12 bucks online. I also have had the plastic cases on several atwoods crack and leak. Rules have steel shafts that rust and eventually cause the pump to fail do to friction but they use better plastic then atwood that doesn't crack. Just a judgment call but personally I'd rather have a pump that overheats and dies due to a bad shaft eventually then one that cracks and fills my yak with water.
I take the pump and heat the barbed nozzle outlet with a heat gun, until it's malleable then slide on a PVC shutoff valve from Home depot. Once it cools I cover the outlet barbs with 5200 to seal it and slide the valve back on the outlet, and lock it in place with a set screw. The shut off valve allows me to control the flow or shut off the flow from the pump completely if I get a leak below the water line in the PVC tank feed line.
I then drilled a 3/4 hole in the hull where it's in easy reach from my seat both inside and outside. Mount the flange on the outside coating the contact surfaces with 5200, slide the 2 inch cap on the shaft inside turned upside down, start the washer on the shaft and turn it down tight by rotating the cap.
To install the pump you just need to put it in the cap flange and tighten the hose clamp to seal the cap to the housing of the pump like tightening a radiator line.
The advantages are: it's easy and quick to remove and put back in but also that since there is not contact from the actual pump to the hull as it floats on a cushion of the rubber cap it's also very quite.
Here's what it looks like on the outside under the hull.
The idea here with the flush screen is if it clogs I can just reach down under the yak and wipe it clean with my hand.
As you can see it's right across form my transducer as I want them both within arms reach.
I do not use standard hoses or clamps but instead use PVC water purification and Ice maker line and the quick disconnects that they make for it. Once again you can just get this stuff from home depot.
The advantage here is that I can easily remove the pump assembly without removing the line and since the components are nylon and stainless and since it's made for water purification systems and takes up to 60 PSI, there is usually no maintenance or leakage issues with the setup or for that matter clamps that you have to tighten to get a good seal. Just stick the tube in the fitting and your done.
I use the same connection at the rear at the tank so I can easily take the tank in and out.
It makes for a nice clean setup
It makes for a nice clean setup.
So there you have it....
Jim
Last edited by Jim Day on Wed Jan 28, 2009 5:30 pm; edited 2 times in total
Rule makes a couple of livewell pumps that already have a threaded intake with the semi-flush plastic nut similar to the one you used. It also comes with a rubber washer to seal the whole thing. They are made for below the waterline applications on boats and would work fine in a yak I am sure. Just drill a 1 inch hole, cut the pick-up tube to length, add washer, insert through hole and screw on nut.
Rule makes a couple of livewell pumps that already have a threaded intake with the semi-flush plastic nut similar to the one you used. It also comes with a rubber washer to seal the whole thing. They are made for below the waterline applications on boats and would work fine in a yak I am sure. Just drill a 1 inch hole, cut the pick-up tube to length, add washer, insert through hole and screw on nut.
Yes that is true... And kodiak makes a small on 360gph pump that works great but it cost 40 bucks and you can't get to the impeller to clean out the pump without disconnecting the hose and power and unscrewing the pump off the through hull (a long involved process),
The base on those pumps raise the pump and impeller up higher (about an inch) making it harder to prime, and harder to get in to the kayak do to deck clearance issues.
I have built a lot of bait systems for boats one of the biggest problems you face on the water with a small pump is something getting into your pump like a chunk of eel grass, or fishing line etc...
The deal with a standard screw on pump is you can not pull it while on the water if something gets in it and jambs up the impeller, without completely disassembling your installation.
With my setup all you have to do is loosen the hose clamp and pull the pump out of the rubber cap, clean the impeller, and then stick it back in the cap and tighten the hose clamp. I can do this in less then a minute on my skiff and though you do take on a few ounces of water while the pump is out of the cap it's worth getting your pump running again.
That is the problem I have with some of the below deck pump installs I have seen. If you get something in your pump the day is shot as you have no way to trouble shoot it or get access without removing the whole setup.
The Rule Tournament Series Livewell pumps do allow access to the impeller without a complete disassembly. You just press a catch in twist and pull. Lifts the motor and impeller out of the housing. I got mine for $31. You are right, there is a 3 inch ofset, so you would have to have it at lest that far below the waterline to keep it self primed. It would also allow water into your yak while you had the impeller out. I have the Straight pick-up tube type, not sure about the 3 inch ofset on the one with the angled pick-up.
The Rule Tournament Series Livewell pumps do allow access to the impeller without a complete disassembly. You just press a catch in twist and pull. Lifts the motor and impeller out of the housing. I got mine for $31. You are right, there is a 3 inch ofset, so you would have to have it at lest that far below the waterline to keep it self primed. It would also allow water into your yak while you had the impeller out. I have the Straight pick-up tube type, not sure about the 3 inch ofset on the one with the angled pick-up.
Yep basically we are doing the same thing, I just made my own quick release, with the rubber plumbing fitting and made it with a 12 buck pump, and since the shaft is the limiting feature for height my impeller intake is only 3/4 of an inch above the hull.
My original under the deck install was on my wood yak and on it I used a Kodiak female thread pump:
Eventually the shaft failed do to rust so I delaminated the black threaded base from the pump body with a heat gun, then replaced if with a rule 360 bilge pump using a rubber sleeve spacer I made from a bike tube and a hose clamp. That setup gave me quick access and I would of done the same here if I had another Kodiak pump.
I was just in Home Depot for a shut off valve when I figured out the new cheaper way to do it. It works good and the rubber really cuts down on the vibration.
Additionally with the Quick connect hose and the way I have it wired I can take the whole thing out in a minute or two, and I like the fact I can pull it and run it in fresh water after my trips.
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